Can I tell you a secret? I wouldn’t use The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane in my skincare routine.
There, I said it.
No, it’s not because it’s not good. I just see it as a step back for everyone who’s been on the retinol train for a long while. Here’s what I mean:
What’s In The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane?
HYDROXYPINACOLONE RETINOATE TO FIGHT WRINKLES AND ACNE
Ever wondered where the name for The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane comes from?
Granactive Retinoid is the nickname for Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (can you imagine if we had to call it that?!), an ester of all-trans direct retinoic acid.
Let me say that again in plain English. It’s not Granactive Retinoid or retinol that gets rid of wrinkles, acne and dark spots. It’s retinoic acid. All forms of vitamin A must be converted to it in the skin or they won’t work.
For retinol, the conversion takes two steps: retinol ⇒ retinaldehyde ⇒ retinoic acid. But because it’s an ester, Granactive Retinoid needs NO conversion. Cool, right?
The manufacturer will tell you that Granactive Retinoid gets rid of wrinkles and dark spots better than retinol – and without the irritation. Problem is, I couldn’t find any independent studies confirming this.
Let’s be clear: this doesn’t mean it doesn’t work. It’s a retinoid, so it’ll likely do something to get rid of wrinkles and dark spots. But, until those studies come out, I’m sticking with retinol. It has decades of studies proving it’s the best OTC thing for wrinkles.
But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t make the switch. I would recommend Granactive Retinoid only in three cases:
- Sensitive skin: Granactive Retinoid is a gentle alternative for those who can’t tolerate any retinol at all.
- Retinoid beginners: If you want to jump on the retinoids bandwagon but are scared retinol will be too harsh for you, Granactive Retinoid is a great first stepping stone.
- Active acne: Independent studies DO show that Granactive Retinoid can treat acne. If retinol is too irritating for your sensitive, acne-ravaged skin, switching to Granactive Retinoid makes sense.
FYI, The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid in Squalene is also available in a lower, 2% strength. If you’re totally new to retinoids, start with that and work your way up.
Related: What Form Of Retinoid Is Right For You?
SQUALANE TO MOISTURISE SKIN
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane has an oily base. Does that automatically puts it off the radar for oily skin?
Nope. I get that some of you dislike the feel of anything oily on your face, so this is out of the question for you. Fair enough.
But if you’re willing to give it a go, I promise it won’t clog your pores. The Ordinary is using squalane, one of three oils (together with MCT oil and mineral oil) that doesn’t aggravate any type of acne, including fungal.
Squalane works because it’s very similar to human sebum, your skin’s natural moisturiser. In other words, your skin recognises it straight away, allowing it to sink quickly and deeply moisturise your skin.
The extra moisture makes your skin soft and supple, prevents water loss and makes Granactive Retinoid even less irritating for your skin.
Related: How To Treat Fungal Acne (And Keep It From Coming Back)
BISABOBOL TO SOOTHE IRRITATIONS
Granactive Retinoid is the gentlest form of retinoid OTC.
In theory, The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane should NOT irritate your skin. And, in practice, almost everyone will be able to use it without problems.
BUT, if your skin’s very sensitive and reacts to everything new, there’s a small chance even this may bother it. To make sure it won’t, The Ordinary added bisabobol to the mix.
Bisabobol is the reason chamomile is so soothing. It’s what gives it its famous anti-inflammatory properties. It reduces redness and irritation and helps your skin heal faster.
Related: 9 Soothing Ingredients For Sensitive Skin
Struggling to put together a skincare routine that minimises wrinkles, prevents premature aging, and gives your complexion a youthful glow? Download your FREE “Best Anti-Aging Skincare Routine” to get started (it features product recommendations + right application order):
Texture
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane has a slightly oily, lightweight texture that sinks in immediately without leaving any greasy residue behind.
Fragrance
It’s fragrance-free.
How To Use It
Every other night, after cleansing.
Performance & Personal Opinion
The first thing I’ve noticed is how hydrating it is. Usually, retinoid products tend to be drying so you need to double up on your moisturiser. Not this. It makes my skin so soft and smooth.
But I’m not convinced it works as well as retinol. Not 1% retinol, anyway. That’s, BY FAR, the number 1 thing that made a difference to my skin. Nothing I’ve tried compares to it.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane is less strong – in every sense of the word. Unlike 1% retinol, it didn’t irritate my skin at all. But it also didn’t work on my fine lines as quickly.
It does even out and brighten the skintone a little but if your goal is to get rid of wrinkles, it’ll take you a long time to see results. That’s why – if your skin can take it – I recommend it as your first stepping stone on your retinoids journey.
Wet your feet in the water with it. See how your skin responds to a gentle retinoid and, when you’re ready, upgrade to a higher strength. Slow and steady always wins the skincare race.
Who Is This For?
- Acne-prone skin
- First-time retinoid users
- Sensitive skin
Who Is This NOT For?
If you’re already using retinol without major irritation, this is a step back.
Packaging
A sleek, dark bottle with a practical dropper applicator.
Does The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% In Squalane Live Up To Its Claims?
| CLAIM | TRUE? |
|---|---|
| This water-free solution contains a 5% concentration of an advanced retinoid active complex called Granactive Retinoid that has been shown to offer better results against multiple signs of aging than retinol without any of the irritation and drawbacks common with retinol. | This is what the manufacturer’s studies say. I’m still waiting for independent studies confirming this. |
| Â This product is not a treatment for acne. Acne-prone skin may experience a temporary increase in acne during the first few weeks of using any form of retinoid including those used in this formulation. | True. This is called purging and is totally normal. It lasts around 6 weeks. |
Price & Availability
£11.90 at Asos, Beauty Bay, Cult Beauty and Feel Unique
Do You Need It?
If you’re looking for a gentle form of retinoid, this is a good option to consider.
Dupes & Alternatives
- Mad Hippie Vitamin A Serum ($32.99)
Ingredients
Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
I’ve owned both The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid (5%) and PTR Retinol Fusion PM for ~6 months. I was new to retinol before purchasing either of these products, and thankfully have no sensitivity to retinol (it probably helps that the PTR is time-released). The morning after I use PTR my skin is visibly improved- I have not yet seen the same results with the Ordinary’s granactive retinoid- perhaps I haven’t given it enough time to prove itself, but I’m sticking with PTR. After I finish the Retinol Fusion I may look at other micro-encapsulated retinol formulas to try out – I don’t LOVE that PTR is not cruelty free, and not a huge fan of the packaging.
Jane, PTR is a more powerful formula and contains more retinol than TO so I’m not surprised it gives you more visible results. I usually recommend starting from a smaller dose and working your way up but since PTR is working well for you, just keep going up from there.
I was really surprised that I had no issues with PTR, my skin has a much easier time with retinol than with AHAs, which can irritate me if I’m not cautious. But retinol has never caused irritation. Speaking of- if I did want to move up from PTR after finishing this bottle, do you have any recommendations on a stronger retinol product that’s still OTC? Thank you! Your blog has very quickly become a go-to, really appreciate how you you discuss products/ingredients straightforwardly, focus on supporting research, safety, etc.
Jane, aww thank you! Really appreciate your support and am glad you like my blog. I don’t think skincare needs to be complicated. It’s about treating your skin kindly and giving it what it needs.
PTR uses one of the highest concentrations OTC. It’s rare to find a product that has more because higher doses are banned due to the potential side effects. But I know Babyface Skincare has a 2.5% retinol moisturiser and it’s microencapsulated too.
Please advise me. what IS PTR??
Sissy, Peter Thomas Roth.
This sucked so much i dont know why but it broke me out so badly im using a adapalene now and im absolutely loving it! <3
http://www.theskincaresaviour.com
Andrew, sorry to hear this didn’t work for you. Just goes to show that even the best products don’t work for everyone. Glad yo’ve found something your skin likes better.
I’ve discovered your blog and have been reading many of your posts, but am afraid that I don’t know where I read that you discouraged having rosehip oil and retinoids in the same routine. If I am a retinoid newbie, would the 2% granactive retinoid be okay if I also used the Essano rosehip collagen repair serum? Or would I need to stick to one? I have sensitive, combination skin if that helps.
And am I understanding that you also recommend retinol and chemical exfoliants, but not on the same day?
A-L, granactive retinoid is gentler than retinol, so you can use it with rosehip oil. But I still recommend you alternate retinoids with exfoliation.
H!! I am on Retin A journey since last 8 months. I am using 0.5 but I didn’t see any obvious results in my skin yet. I’m the beginning I was using it once a day and now I am using it continues 2 days in a week. So is it time to move towards 1percent..? Or should I increase days of using Retin A?
A Aini, if your skin can tolerate it, I’d increase frequency slowly. But please also discuss this with your dermatologist.
Hello Gio! In your post you recommend alternating exfoliation and retinoids. On TO website one of the routine they recommend is glycolic acid 7% toner + granactive retinoid 2% or 5%. Do you think it is enough to exfoliate the skin when used twice a week? I’m used to AHA (but it doesn’t work on me!) and totally new to retinoids. I tried retinol from Paula’s Choice but it broke me out really badly.
Thank you,
May
May, Granactive Retinoid is weaker and gentler than retinol, so you may be able to use it with glycolic acid. But I still recommend you alternate. There’s no reason to exfoliate more than 2/3 times a week.